Double bowline with yosemite finish. Some climbers like to finish their figure-eight with a "Yosemite tuck" or "Yosemite finish. Rock climbers often prefer this variation because it reduces the risk of the knot working loose under repeated movement. Mar 3, 2020 · The Yosemite Bowline is an alternative method of finishing off the Bowline to give a more compact and secure tying-on knot. 8 knots. 3 days ago · The Yosemite bowline isn't safe for climbing after all - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. A Yosemite bowline is made from a bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, a final round turn and reeve commonly known as a "Yosemite finish. This is a really quick knots to tie, easy to untie, and when well done, there's no reason it is less safe than a fig. A Yosemite Bowline is loop knot with better security than the common Bowline. 2) What are the pros and cons over a fig 8? Cheers Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The Double Bowline is safe for climbing when tied properly and is a LOT easier to untie after being loaded. See animation here. Do a follow-through to tie the rope to your harness. This bowline is then finished with what is known as a “Yosemite finish” and a final round of twists. 49 likes, 4 comments - taylor_passetti on November 22, 2024: "Static retrievable false crotch. Feb 24, 2011 · Another difference (as preventec47 observed) is that with the bowline with a bight, if the bight "tail" is continued with a "Yosemite finish", you create a forward-facing loop that can be loaded, which significantly increases this knot's versatility. A Yosemite Bowline "can be" a very secure loop knot when tied correctly, and is a version of the Bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, commonly known as a "Yosemite finish. It’s easier to untie than a Figure 8 Knot, even after taking multiple falls, so it h Figure of 8 with a Yosemite Finish & Extra Wrap for Rock Climbing Tie In Knot JB Mountain Skills 34. And if you use a bowline, Oct 5, 2015 · The best bowlineThis would be technically correct. Tied correctly, the double bowline is a safe, versatile climbing knot and will hold the weight of a fall without fusing. Yosemite bowline – It is a bowline locked with a Yosemite finish. I'll leave that to other people. Tie it with a bight and clip it to the anchor and the rope is fixed and ready to ascend. Personally I'd far prefer to climb on a bowline than a yosemite finish. The Bowline With Yosemite Finishwatch?v=Jj42B8eCOzcIf you are going to use the Bowline with Yosemite finish or Yosemite Bowline for climbing or mountaineerin Oct 5, 2015 · The best bowlineThis would be technically correct. ” CAUTION: If you are not already familiar with tying in with a bowline, do not go and try this … or any bowline, when you climb. Jun 18, 2018 · For a bowline with but a single loop through tie-in points, what seems to be called "Lee's locked Yosemite bowline" is, in my 50-year experience with bowline variations, the most stable (and probably the strongest) bowline version there is. " The knot's security is enhanced by preventing the bowline 'capsizing' to form a highly dangerous slip-knot. Maybe, but historically, people overestimate their ability to verify knots as they get more complex. Step 3 Complete the bowline and make sure you pass through the extra loop as shown to come out under the two right hand loop strands. Backing up The Bowline knot with the Yosemite backup. Figure 8 and double bowline are both safe and recommended (unlike the bowline with a Yosemite finish). The upside of this is that it can clean up the knot. The Yosemite Finish for the Bowline accomplishes two things. This is one if the best knots to know, it can be quickly tied and untied even after it has bee A Yosemite bowline is a loop knot often perceived as having better security than a bowline. Here's a couple of questions: 1) Should I be using a single or double bowline? Does it make much difference? I'm a sport climber but just getting into trad. The Double Bowline knot has been around for centuries, primarily used by fishermen and sailors to Embark on a journey into knot-tying excellence with our latest tutorial on the versatile Yosemite Bowline! Whether you're a climber, outdoor enthusiast, or someone eager to expand your knot-tying Yosemite Bowline Found this video useful or entertaining? Want to thank me but don't know how? You can alwmore Jun 12, 2017 · For me, the answer is the twin bowline (there are many, many names for this knot, German/Italian Bowline being one, but I use the term twin to differentiate it from the double bowline or retreaded bowline, which are terms often used to describe the knot which leads to confusion). How to Tie the Yosemite Bowline Usage The Yosemite Bowline is a modified version of the Bowline designed for added security and ease of untying after heavy loads. You can join two ends together in a bend, called a flemish, but it's rarely done in big walling because EDK or fisherman's knot is used. Block/pulley: Use something with rope friendly cheeks or suitable hardware, unlike the configuration I have here. Knot: Sideways Bowline with a Yosemite finish, or a Double Sideways Bowline with a Yosemite finish. When I say hard evidence - I am talking about a test result that is repeatable by others. I wouldn’t use all of these, however I definitely prefer the Yosemite and Double bowline over using the standard form. When we went to the local gym and she was getting belay certified they had her tie her own knot and count off. What are y'alls feelings/personal preferences with regards to this? The easiest way to ensure this is to tighten the Bowline before tying the Yosemite finish. Then yeah I've got that fine. 1K subscribers Subscribe It looks like a double bowline with the fisherman just managing the tail end of the rope. As the rope wraps around twice, the double bowline knot is more secure than a regular bowline knot. Also, it's easier to adjust and easier to tie. ではどうすればよいのか？ 対策1: Bowline with Yosemite Finish - ボウライン with ヨセミテフィニッシュ, Yosemite Bowline - ヨセミテボウライン 先の動画 で解決策としてでてきたボウライン with ヨセミテフィニッシュ、ヨセミテボウラインという結び方を使う 対策2: Double Bowline - ダブルボウライン (2重 The free end of a bowline is looped around one of the loop’s legs and tucked back through the knot to form a Yosemite bowline. The cons seem to be lots more people die from screwing up the knot and/or backup knot. Bowline with double Yosemite finish, more or less secure?With me, claims have to pass the sniff test. The Double Bowline is also faster to tie than the figure eight. Apr 29, 2025 · Featured knots include the Running Bowline, Stationary Bowline, Bowline with Yosemite Finish, Running Daisy Chain, Alpine Butterfly, Clove Hitch, Cow Hitch, Anchor Hitch, Barrel Knot (corrected A Yosemite bowline is a loop knot often perceived as having better security than a bowline. Yosemite finish - 3, 5, 8, 11, 12 - count from harness up. I tend to prefer double knots when they are available. If the knot is not dressed correctly, it can potentially collapse into a noose, however testing reveals this alternative configuration to be strong and safe as a climbing tie-in. And, usually, test data comes with such scant explanation of testing & knot geometry I've always used the yosemite finish while lead-climbing to keep my knot as close to my body as possible, because I don't like reaching for the rope and grabbing a safety knot. I found this knot described by PACI who have done quite a few tests on it. It's important though, that not only you but also the people you climb/slackline with know how to check Bowline is the way to go although you have to be careful, only 5 versions/derivatives of the bowline are secure (Yosemite and Double bowline don't count). Mar 18, 2020 · The Yosemite finish can be applied to other bowline variants, such as the double bowline. This is another knot that has found a place in the climbing community and is often referred to as the Yosemite finish. May 12, 2023 · Double Becket Bend Bowline with a Yosemite finish on a bight. Double bowline is better for the reasons you mentioned. For those that tie the bowline, what's the best system to finish the knot? Stuck, no. Looks like the second photo but not entirely---how did the end make it out of the knot to the standing part? Aug 7, 2025 · The Double Bowline (ABoK #1013) forms a strong, single loop with an extra turn for added security. Why Learn the Yosemite Bowline? Adjustable double bowline - yosemite finishStep 2 After forming the two main loops, pass the working end through the knot loop again in the normal direction. Jul 26, 2025 · The Yosemite finished Bowline knot can turn into a disastrous knot if you mess up with the tightening process. Is the Bowline Knot secure enough for climbing? While the Bowline is reliable, climbers often prefer variants like the Double or Yosemite Bowline for added security in life-critical situations. I just recently learned about the bowline knot for tying your harness in for climbing. May 9, 2025 · I once was a big Yosemite finish kinda guy but after many gym sessions struggling to get my eight untied, I had the realization that maybe this method of finishing is harder to untie than just tying the thing correctly Let’s not forget about the brotherhood knot only being an overhand with a follow through. " The only downside to the Yosemite Bowline is that it is more difficult to visually inspect. The tail end of the knot is tucked under the loop that forms the Bowline Knot, for added security. Bowline on a bight – It is made with a bight of rope. There are lots of ways of tying the bowline, and this is my favorite. " In addition to potentially being more secure than a standard bowline, the Yosemite variant is also easier to See full list on 101knots. The Yosemite Bowline is a regular bowline with an added safety tie off to prevent it from working itself loose. However I only use it when I'm climbing with a partner who also uses it. Author Topic: Bowline with double Yosemite finish, more or less secure? (Read 9863 times) BelgianBight New Member Posts: 9 Sparing the figure-8 vs. If you try to tighten it all at once, there is a chance the Yosemite loop will slip underneath the bowline and create a disaster waiting to happen. The pros seem to be it's easier to untie. This strong loop knot is a variation of the bowline that has the free end wrapped around one side of the loop and tucked back into the knot, commonly known as a Yosemite finish. Apr 28, 2020 · The Yosemite bowline has been promoted for years as a safe and reliable termination knot for tree climbing. Versions of the bowline There are many types of bowline, but only three are commonly used in climbing: the standard bowline, the double bowline, and the rethreaded bowline. Yosemite bowline: Not as easily checked as figure eight, strongest knot for dynamic rope tension, easy to untie even after taking a punch. Yosemite Bowline The Yosemite bowline is more of a method of finishing the knot than a separate knot. It's strong, stable and easy enough to tie. Jun 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Because of the danger of incorrectly dressing the Yosemite bowline and capsizing it even before it is set, it may be safer End on the outside is a variant, like the Double Bowline, Water bowline, Yosemite Bowline, Bowline on a Bight, Spanish Bowline, or any of several others. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Jul 5, 2008 · Still asking this question as though strength is a characteristic of a knot schema? Hasn't that notion been battered enough to generate a better thinking, by now, here?! Crain Connally is big on the YoBowl as being strong, but I simply don't see how/why, and haven't seen data to help support this contention. [5] The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is that it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall, [3][4] and so is used by sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights. Taken longer than necessary to untie, yes. However, there are safety concerns with bowlines untying and being Jan 21, 2017 · Knot tying video - yosemite bowline or bowline with a yosemite finish. Eskimo Bowline: Provides higher security and resistance to capsizing under directional loads. Eskimo Bowline Bowline with Yosemite Finish: Adds extra security to prevent slippage; ideal for climbing. They don't tighten up on themselves as much as figure eight follow throughs do, lots of people expecting to take falls will tie these types of knots. [32] Jun 30, 2025 · To address this, the standard Bowline knot should either be backed up with a backup knot or finished off with a Yosemite finish. Ideal for climbing and securing ropes. An added bonus of the yosemite finish is that it's easier to untie when you get back down. Here is the most common knot in climbing. Leave enough slack for completing the bowline and adding the yosemite finish. While the knot's versatility suggests it as a convenient tie-in for attaching a climbing rope to a climber's harness, the figure-of-eight follow through is the most common choice because it is more widely known and more easily checked. It's important though, that not only you but also the people you climb/slackline with know how to check Sep 4, 2016 · I also tie in for single pitch sport with a bowline on a bight retraced, yosemite finish. Agree with Lee's Locked Bowline. There’s no risk that you’ll need to cut the rope off your harness. How to tie the Double Bowline for rock climbing. I use "Scotts locked bowline. IP of Mark Gommers 21’ paper May 11, 2010 · 2) Tie a double loop variant eg double bowline, water bowline, to make the knot less likely to slip 3) Pass the free end in some way through part of the knot in an attempt to secure it eg Yosemite, Edwards, numerous others Aug 5, 2021 · 6. Can the Bowline Knot be used for camping? Yes, it’s frequently used for camping tasks like tying down tarps, setting up shelters, and securing gear. Also known as the Portuguese Bowline. [3][4 Jul 11, 2022 · How To Tie the Figure Eight Double Bowline With Backup Pros For big falls, this knot, which is easier to undo, solves the fused-figure-eight problem. To tie the Bowline with a Yosemite finish, you just wrap the free end around the bight and feed it back through the knot. It’s so much more secure than the original bowline that in some countries, climbing organisations insist that it is the only safe and recommended way to finish off the bowline knot. [6] Nov 11, 2023 · You can also apply the “Yosemite finish” to a standard or double bowline knot, then tie a stopper knot at the end. Includes variations such as the double-knotted bowline and the Yosemite finish. 6 kN (only 9. As far as I can tell both still have the issue that the yosemite bowline has though. I recommend tying the stopper knot right up against the bowline to keep everything snug and to limit movement, which could loosen the knot. The figure 8 is tied poorly. When finished, the working Special thanks to Richard Pucci (@richardpucci6771) for co-inventing this loop knot with me! **Please be sure to tie the Yosemite finish off to the left of the standing end. Though be exceptionally careful with the Yosemite finish; if you put the rope back through the wrong part To avoid this flaw, if starting with a cowboys bowline, a figure 8 tuck is required: as in the Yosemite finish! But if starting with a common bowline it is the figure 8 (Yosemite) finish that is at risk of a fatal failure through a simple rearrangement that leaves the nipping loop enclosing only one arm of the bight. Yosemite Bowline How to tie the Yosemite Bowline Knot. Please view the Double Loop Bowline with a Double Sheet Bend page before proceeding. It combines the looped end of the EBDB with a Yosemite finish. It keeps the working end of the rope parallel with the standing end and out of the inside of the loop. ) Vs figure eight with Yosemite finish? I've been sliding into the rabbit hole of bowline variations for tying in. The test regime also has to be based on real-world loading Oct 11, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I only tie in with 2 different knots, the double bowline backed up and the figure 8 which is what I recommend for every new climber. Strength In a 2019 slop pull test, the Portuguese bowline on a bight with Yosemite finish [31] failed on an 11 mm high tenacity polyester rope at a minimum of 36. . Aug 2, 2017 · Yosemite Bowline knot is one of the most popular variant of Bowline knots used by climbers, notably for the harness tying-in point. While this is an excellent way to finish your knot it is often tied incorrectly, with climbers partially “un-finishing” their properly tied Figure 8 Follow Through when tucking the tail back into the knot. Mar 25, 2009 · Hi all, I've started using a double bowline for tying in, purely because it's quicker and easier to undo than a fig 8. Of course, my angle is with knots used in human life support applications (ie mission critical uses - iewhere knot failure could lead to a serious fall). I did add a so-called 'Yosemite finish' to the EBSB Bowline variant. It looks like this: I can modify my EBDB bowline until it looks exactly like this To add extra security to the Bowline Knot you can add the Yosemite Tie Off. If the knot is not dressed correctly, it can potentially collapse I often use a single bowline backup with a double overhand knots for backup. com The Yosemite finish can be applied to other bowline variants, such as the double bowline. In this video I will describe its shortcomings and offer an Feb 23, 2025 · Enhancing the standard bowline, the Yosemite Bowline features an additional tuck for extra security. While the knot's versatility suggests it as a convenient tie-in for attaching a End Bound Single Bowline With Yosemite Finish This is a good contender for the ultimate climbing bowline. " Jun 20, 2015 · It doesn't mention the Edwards specifically, though its corollary ("end-bound single bowline with yosemite finish") is shown on page 27. If you are going to use the Bowline with Yosemite finish or Yosemite Bowline for climbing or mountaineering it can turn into a potentially hazardous knot if tied and dressed incorrectly. AKA Sedona Rigging Bowline. Step 4: Tie a Yosemite tie off using the bight of the Bowline variations (on a bight, lee's locked, double with Yosemite finish, etc. ” The knot’s security is enhanced by preventing the bowline capsizing to form a highly Jun 29, 2022 · The Yosemite Finish is an outstanding "finish" to a standard bowline that makes the knot cleaner and stronger. Never had a single issue with that knot, and I believe it's better for your tie in loops because it has double the surface area in contact with your harness as a follow through figure 8. Description A Yosemite bowline is loop knot often perceived as having better security than a bowline. Double Bowline vs. Aug 20, 2024 · 956 likes, 40 comments - smilemountainguides on August 18, 2024: "HARRY BUTLER’S YOSEMITE BOWLINE Secure Stable This is a nice variation to the Yosemite bowline because it increases the stability of the knot by finishing the tail back through the double nipping loops. May 22, 2020 · I would like to switch to the Yosemite bowline knot. 1 kN without the Yosemite finish). Jan 16, 2024 · Yosemite Bowline (Yosemite Finish) Water Bowline Round-Turn Bowline (Double Bowline) Bowline In A Bight (Not at the end of a line) Twin Bowline (Bowline Bend). Opposite to what is The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the figure eight follow through [3][4] and the Yosemite bowline. ” The knot’s security is enhanced by preventing the bowline capsizing to form a highly A Yosemite bowline is made from a bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, a final round turn and reeve commonly known as a "Yosemite finish. If you mean, yosemite finish. Bowline on a coil knot – For attaching tag lines to litters in both vertical and horizontal configurations. May 11, 2010 · 2) Tie a double loop variant eg double bowline, water bowline, to make the knot less likely to slip 3) Pass the free end in some way through part of the knot in an attempt to secure it eg Yosemite, Edwards, numerous others Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I assume you mean "know how to dress the knot well". " This is common technique is accomplished by tucking the end of the rope back into the knot. It is incredibly strong, easy to untie, and simple to learn, earning it the name "The King of Knots. I've seen Czech finishes, bights, retraced, etc. He may be right, however in my professional opinion it still looks like a bowline with a yosemite finish due to the lay of the tail strand as it goes through the cinch part of the Jul 5, 2021 · The Double Bowline Knot is sometimes used as a “tie-in”, to attach the rope to the climber’s harness. This knot is great for wilderness operations and making a bridle for a strokes to name a couple. In this video, we show you how to tie a Yosemite Bowline Knot. To avoid this, follow these steps: First, pull the bottom of the loop and the standing end. Bowline with Yosemite Finish vs. Doing so creates a knot that is extra safe and secure. How to Tie a BOWLINE with a YOSEMITE FINISH! A Somewhat More Secure Bowline Variant! Knotorious 15K subscribers Subscribed The Double Bowline Knot is an alternative knot for tying into a harness. The Double Bowline has the same strength as a figure eight knot but is simpler to tie. The other added benefit is the tail remains out of the way when clipping while leading. I think my plan of action is going to be a) do a better job of dressing my fig. The general problem with the Dutch bowline is if something grabs, pulls or catches the tail end while its on the outside the knot will come undone easier. This loop knot starts in the same was as a bowline and then the working end follows part of the knot to finish. Step 2: Continuation of step 1. edit for the sake of clarity, u/troglobiont has suggested the bowline may be a specialized form of the double bowline, demonstrated here. As Dan will no doubt point out, I went through a phase in life where every Bowline I tied seemed to end up with such a Dec 13, 2012 · On November 29, Yosemite climbing legend John Long was seriously injured in an accident at a Los Angeles gym when his bowline knot came undone. It is a Bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot — commonly known as a "Yosemite finish. The Yosemite Bowline is mainly an alternative tie-in to the Figure Eight. If you would like to “secure” your left over tail to keep it from “flapping around” consider the Yosemite Finish. And I'm smelling something very fishy here. I often use a double bowline with a Yosemite finish (and double overhand after that) as my tie-in knot. This knot is useful for construct a pre-tensioned back tie. It is frequently used in climbing, hoisting, and securing objects, particularly in situations requiring a dependable loop. Bowline on a bight: Easy to check, almost as strong as yosemite bowline, very easy to untie (in my experience it never tightens at all in the first place, being loose unless actively pulled on). 9 kN when it was pulled from its anchors into a forward facing bight, and on an 8 mm nylon cord at a minimum of 9. As a frequent faller/hangdogger, I'd certainly Nov 20, 2023 · A Yosemite bowline is made from a bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, a final round turn and reeve commonly known as a "Yosemite finish. How to Tie a BOWLINE with a YOSEMITE FINISH! A Somewhat More Secure Bowline Variant! 311 Dislike << Yosemite bowline, bowline with a Yosemite finish | Bowline on a bight, double bowline on a bight >> This page is not intended to be viewed this way, please load the entire article. It's just a pain. I've been tying into a mixed variant of 7b & 14b, "Lee's Locked Bowline" and the Clifford Ashley knot, for about 8 years now. Eskimo Bowline Double Bowline: Offers greater strength and security for critical applications. " The Yosemite finish can be applied to other bowline variants, such as the Double Bowline. It's the one I've been using for a couple of years now. Aug 25, 2022 · Are bowlines safe? Tied correctly, the double bowline is a safe, versatile climbing knot and will hold the weight of a fall without fusing. Learn about it here. I have seen it fail. Water bowline knot – It is a bowline with an extra half hitch. However, there is a significant risk for the knot. The tail is passed around outside the loop and back through the knot a second time to form a Yosemite Tie-off. Is a figure of 8 Yosemite finish safe? A Yosemite finish is also totally safe. Some people prefer to use this knot as a tie in for climbing over the normal figure Jul 16, 2012 · However, as a user of the Yosemite, it is disturbing that this can happen, even if it requires a sloppy tying of the knot. If you double up the strands as you tie it, you can get bunny ears or the Mar 18, 2020 · The Yosemite finish can be applied to other bowline variants, such as the double bowline. Jun 30, 2025 · Double Running Bowline Knot The Double Running Bowline knot is based on a Double Bowline and is more secure than the standard Running Bowline. I am interested in single-pitch climbs and gained s Nov 27, 2016 · I do a Yosemite finish and double overhand on the standing part with both single and double bowlines. This variation prevents the bowline from collapsing into a slipknot. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. He fell to the floor, sustaining a compound fracture OP suggested using "a bowline with a Yosemite tie off", so that's what I linked. However, it is harder to inspect, and it is easier to make mistake that will render the knot useless. double bowline discussion, how do people finish their knots safely? I've been tying in with the double bowline with a Yosemite finish and double fisherman's backup. I always add a standard grapevine stopper after tying the Yosemite finish, but perhaps I will investigate using the rethreaded bowline on a bight in future. #treeclimbing #climbing #rigging #ropes #arboriculture #arbor". It increases the strength of the knot and prevents it from capsizing into a highly dangerous slip knot. I've found that most people are familiar with the "tree and hole" method, and people r The Yosemite Bowline is a normal Bowline, but with an added security tie off. If you tighten the tag end first, you’ll end up ruining the structure of the Bowline, and it defeats the whole purpose of the Yosemite finish. It's considered more safe then the normal Bowline and is used a tie-in knot. In this episode we learn how to tie the always useful bowline. Nov 11, 2008 · It is less of a headache if you just follow the gym's rules while you are there. Another possible con is that the rope strength may be reduced with bowline knot. Aug 10, 2018 · No more, no less. As a heavier (230+lbs) climber I am attracted to a knot that is easy to untie after being weighted, and the bowline is definitely that. Step 3: Dress the Bowline knot. Additional safety is achieved by tying with a tail (see below). A Yosemite bowline is made from a bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, a final round turn and reeve commonly known as a “Yosemite finish. It’s essentially a regular Bowline Knot with an additional step called the Yosemite Finish. Bowline variations (on a bight, lee's locked, double with Yosemite finish, etc. But with repeated lead falls the knot becomes very tight. Bowline is the way to go although you have to be careful, only 5 versions/derivatives of the bowline are secure (Yosemite and Double bowline don't count). That said I still use figure 8s for multipitch climbing. I was making this knot up when I Happy 4th!!! “The end bound single bowline. Multiple methods for tying a bowline knot. Apr 29, 2025 · Featured knots include the Running Bowline, Stationary Bowline, Bowline with Yosemite Finish, Running Daisy Chain, Alpine Butterfly, Clove Hitch, Cow Hitch, Anchor Hitch, Barrel Knot (corrected A Yosemite bowline is made from a bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, a final round turn and reeve commonly known as a "Yosemite finish. Running Bowline with a Yosemite Tie-off The main disadvantage of the Bowline knot is that it can come undone if there is a dynamic load in the line. For the backup knot, Weidner ties the end in a simple Today, there are many variations of the bowline that are still the best at what they do, including the bowline on a bight; the French bowline; the double bowline; and the bowline with “Yosemite finish”, which is very popular with sport climbers as a tie-in knot because it's easy to untie after having held a fall. Lots of people would say that they can verify a bowline or double bowline with a Yosemite finish, but look-alike knots have been discovered, and we have dead bodies to show that they happen in practice. Jun 21, 2017 · 11 According to the most comprehensive reference ever written on bowlines, the EBSB bowline (which is a variation of another variation, called the EBDB bowline, together with a sort of Yosemite finish) is probably the safest easily undone tie-in knot for climbing. Looks good, I use an edwards bowline which is a similar extra tuck on the yosemite finish. I don't want to compare the pros and cons of figure 8, double bowline and Yosemite bowline. Needless to say the guy was confused because he had no idea what a yosemite finish was and nearly failed her because he thought her knot was wrong. Tighten and dress up the knot. Step 1: Tie an inside Bowline with a bight of rope instead of the end of the rope. One motion to untie! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Instead of the single "nipping turn", it uses a double (14b) - originally to keep the knot from capsizing, and is tied off with the combined Yosemite finish with the lock down give the nipping turn three widths of rope to bite down on. Apr 18, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Basically, a tiny bit of mistying, or even just a bit of wiggle during a course of a day, could cause a serious weakening of the strength of the knot. I'd like to see hard evidence of any insecurity and instability issues with Scotts locked Bowline. How To Tie A Yosemite Bowline Knot To learn how to tie a Yosemite bowline knot, follow the simple instructions below: Step 1: Create a loop in your rope. 8 b) if that doesn't help, use the Yosemite Finish and c) as a last resort, learn the double bowline. Aug 11, 2025 · The Yosemite Bowline is a standard bowline locked with a Yosemite finish. tggl fta uvobp qqtwoxo wtj rkrtm rksbv rmxj vqse bvay